Aqueous fatty quaternary amine-containing carrier systems for water-insoluble materials

ABSTRACT

The present invention is drawn to a carrier composition containing: (a) at least one fatty quaternary amine compound; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant; (c) at least one anionic silicone; and (d) at least one water-insoluble material, and wherein the composition, when combined with an aqueous phase, forms an aqueous delivery system which is both stable, and clear to slightly hazy/limpid in appearance.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED PATENT APPLICATIONS

The present application is a continuation of U.S. patent applicationSer. No. 11/154,156, filed on Jun. 16, 2005, the disclosure of which isincorporated herein by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a novel carrier system based on acombination of at least one fatty quaternary amine compound, at leastone nonionic surfactant, and at least one anionic silicone, wherein thecarrier system allows water-insoluble materials to be incorporated intoaqueous solutions.

Certain water-insoluble ingredients which are oftentimes desirable forthe treatment of keratinous substrates are inherently difficult toincorporate into aqueous systems such as shampoos and conditionerswithout forming a traditional emulsion in either cream or lotion form.Moreover, many of these water-insoluble ingredients suppress latheringwhich makes the use of aqueous systems such as shampoos and body washesless desirable to consumers. Even in those aqueous systems which doemploy these types of water-insoluble ingredients, their presence isminimal due to various performance drawbacks such as poor spreadability,foaming, removal and rinsing or, in the case of styling products,difficulties in removal via shampooing.

Also, when formulating clear to slightly limpid aqueous delivery systemsfor use in treating keratinous substrates, water-insoluble compounds donot lend themselves to being used therein, due to their inability tosignificantly associate with the water present in the system.

Thus, there remains a need for an aqueous delivery system which cancarry water-insoluble materials while remaining both stable and clear,to slightly limpid, in appearance.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In order to achieve these and other advantages, the present invention isdrawn to a carrier composition containing:

a) at least one fatty quaternary amine compound;

b) at least one nonionic surfactant;

c) at least one anionic silicone; and

d) at least one water-insoluble material,

wherein the composition, when combined with an aqueous phase, forms anaqueous delivery system which is both stable, and clear to slightlyhazy/limpid in appearance.

In another embodiment, the present invention is also drawn to a processfor making an aqueous delivery system which is both stable, and clear toslightly limpid in appearance, involving the steps of:

a) providing a carrier composition containing: (i) at least one fattyquaternary amine compound, (ii) at least one nonionic surfactant and,(iii) at least one anionic silicone;

b) providing at least one water-insoluble ingredient;

c) optionally, heating the composition of step (a) to form a heatedmixture;

d) adding (b) to either step (a), step (c) or both step (a) and (c);

e) adding an aqueous solution to either (c) or (d) to form a dilutedmixture; and

f) cooling the diluted mixture to form the aqueous delivery system.

Finally, in yet another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to aprocess for treating a keratinous substrate by contacting the substratewith an aqueous delivery system containing the above-disclosed carriercomposition.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditionsare to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about”.

The term “water-insoluble” means those compounds which are eithercompletely or partially insoluble in water.

The term “carried” means that the aqueous delivery system containing thewater-insoluble ingredients is both stable and clear, to slightlylimpid, in appearance.

“At least one” as used herein means one or more and thus includesindividual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

“Conditioning” as used herein means imparting to at least one keratinousfiber at least one property chosen from combability, manageability,moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state ofconditioning is evaluated by measuring, and comparing, the ease ofcombability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms ofcombing work (gm-in).

“Formed from,” as used herein, means obtained from chemical reaction of,wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions andinduced chemical reactions. As used herein, the phrase “formed from”, isopen ended and does not limit the components of the composition to thoselisted, e.g., as component (i) and component (ii). Furthermore, thephrase “formed from” does not limit the order of adding components tothe composition or require that the listed components (e.g., components(i) and (ii)) be added to the composition before any other components.

“Hydrocarbons,” as used herein, include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes,wherein the alkanes comprise at least one carbon, and the alkenes andalkynes each comprise at least two carbons; further wherein thehydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branchedhydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbonsmay optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons mayoptionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in thehydrocarbon chain.

“Silicone compound,” as used herein, includes, for example, silica,silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to acompound comprising at least one silicon; wherein the silicone compoundmay be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched siliconecompounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the siliconecompound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the siliconecompound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatomintercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatomis different from the at least one silicon.

“Substituted,” as used herein, means comprising at least onesubstituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, suchas oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, suchas hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups,oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups,amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups,ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups,siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may befurther substituted.

“Ethylene oxide group” as defined herein refers to a group of formula—CH2CH2-O—.

“Propylene oxide group” as defined herein includes groups of formula—CH2CH2CH2-O—, groups of formula (CH3)CHCH2-O—, and groups of formula—CH2 (CH3)CH—O—.

“Keratinous substrate” as defined herein may be human keratinous fiber,and may be chosen from, for example, hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, aswell as the stratum corneum of the skin and nails.

“Polymers,” as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymersformed from at least two different types of monomers.

Advantageously, the present invention allows water-insoluble materialsor ingredients to be carried in an aqueous solution. No alcohol isrequired to render the system stable and clear, to slightly limpid, inappearance.

The carrier composition of the invention is easy to formulate and gentleon the hair, skin, or eyelashes because the surfactants used therein aregenerally mild.

The compositions and delivery systems of the present invention readilydeliver water-insoluble ingredients onto the targeted keratinoussubstrate. Accordingly, these compositions and delivery systems can beused in hair shampoos, conditioners, hair dyeing compositions, includingoxidative dyes and bleaches, permanent waving compositions, curlrelaxing compositions, hair setting compositions, bath and bodyproducts, sunscreens, cosmetics and skin moisturizers, and the like.

These systems can also be used to deliver active water-insolublepharmaceutical ingredients, particularly in topical applications. Suchsystems could further help protect against oxidation and rancidity byprotecting sensitive ingredients in pharmaceuticals or foods.

Without being bound to a particular theory, the inventors believe thatthe aqueous delivery system is in the form of a microemulsion wherebythe anionic silicone forms an ion pair or pseudo-soap with the fattyquaternary amine which is then coupled to the aqueous solution as amixed micelle (or other organized structure) by the nonionic surfactant.This structure is believed to be of sufficient stability and size toprovide hydrophilic regions which carry the water-insoluble ingredients.These microemulsions range from pourable liquids to firm ringing gels.

The present invention provides for the use of conventional fattyquaternary amine compounds containing from about 6 to about 22 carbonatoms. The anion of the quaternary ammonium compound can be a common ionsuch as chloride, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, bromide, lactate,nitrate, phosphate, or tosylate and mixtures thereof. The long chainalkyl groups can include additional or replaced carbon or hydrogen atomsor ether linkages. Other substitutions on the quaternary nitrogen can behydrogen, benzyl or short chain alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups such asmethyl, ethyl, hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl orcombinations thereof.

Examples of fatty quaternary ammonium compounds include but are notlimited to: Behentrimonium chloride, Cocotrimonium chloride,Cethethyldimonium bromide, Dibehenyldimonium chloride, Dihydrogenatedtallow benzylmonium chloride, disoyadimonium chloride, Ditallowdimoniumchloride, Hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, HydroxyethylBehenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, Hydroxyethyl Cetyldimonium chloride,Hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, myristalkonium chloride, PEG-2Oleamonium chloride, PEG-5 Stearmonium chloride, PEG-15 cocoylquaternium 4, PEG-2 stearalkonium 4, lauryltrimonium chloride;Quaternium-16; Quaternium-18, lauralkonium chloride, olealkoniumchloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6,Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-22,Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-47, cetyl trimoniumchloride, dilauryldimonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride,dicetyldimonium chloride, soyatrimonium chloride, stearyl octyl dimoniummethosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate (18-MEA), stearalkoniumchloride, and mixtures thereof. Other quaternary ammonium compounds arelisted in the CTFA Cosmetic

Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, on pages 41-42, incorporated hereinby reference.

In the present invention, the fatty quaternary amine compound ispreferably used in an amount of from greater than 0% to 30% by weight,preferably from greater than 0% to 10% by weight, and more preferablyfrom greater than 0% to 5% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition as a whole. Preferably, the carrier composition of thepresent invention, when combined with water, forms a clear solution,though the purpose of the invention is achieved just as effectively witha slightly cloudy/limpid solution.

In general, nonionic surfactants having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance(HLB) of from 8 to 20, are contemplated for use by the presentinvention. Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in thecompositions of the present invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's“Detergents and Emulsifiers,” North American Edition (1986), publishedby Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's “FunctionalMaterials,” North American Edition (1992); both of which areincorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

Examples of nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are notlimited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following: fatty alcohols,alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides,wherein the alkyl chain is in the C12-C50 range, preferably in theC16-C40 range, more preferably in the C24 to C40 range, and having fromabout 1 to about 110 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy groups are selected fromthe group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethyleneoxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferredalkoxides. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, orunsaturated. Of these alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants, the alkoxylatedalcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated alcohols and propoxylatedalcohols are more preferred. The alkoxylated alcohols may be used aloneor in mixtures thereof. The alkoxylated alcohols may also be used inmixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.

Other representative examples of such ethoxylated fatty alcohols includelaureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylationof 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree ofethoxylation of 23), ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having anaverage degree of ethoxylation of 10) steareth-10 (a stearyl alcoholethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), andsteareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree ofethoxylation of 2), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having anaverage degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcoholethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10(a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylationof 10), and other derivatives and mixtures of the preceding.

Also available commercially are Brij® nonionic surfactants from ICISpecialty Chemicals, Wilmington, Del. Typically, Brij® is thecondensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about54 moles of ethylene oxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol beingtypically a linear chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbonatoms, for example, Brij 72 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij 76 (i.e.,Steareth-10).

Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are alkyl glycosides, whichare the condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C8-30alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can berepresented by the formula (S)n —O—R wherein S is a sugar moiety such asglucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer offrom about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-30 alkyl group. Examples oflong chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived includedecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristylalcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of thesesurfactants are alkyl polyglucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R isa C8-20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9.Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decylpolyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside(available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS), all the above-identifiedpolyglucosides APG® are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also usefulherein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucroselaurate.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention areglyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters, including but not limited to,glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryloleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glycerylmonopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, andpolyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chainfatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate,polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglycerylmonooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters.Preferable are sorbitan esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated andbranched chain fatty acids. Because of the manner in which they aretypically manufactured, these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixturesof mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitablesorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN® 80), sorbitansesquioleate (e.g., Arlacel® 83 from ICI Specialty Chemicals,Wilmington, Del.), sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL® 6 from Croda,Inc., Parsippany, N.J.), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN® 60), sorbitantrioleate (e.g., SPAN® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN® 65),sorbitan dipalmitates (e.g., SPAN® 40), and sorbitan isostearate.Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate are particularlypreferred emulsifiers for use in the present invention.

Also suitable for use herein are alkoxylated derivatives of glycerylesters, sorbitan esters, and alkyl polyglycosides, wherein the alkoxygroups is selected from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and theirmixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of thesematerials being the preferred. Nonlimiting examples of commerciallyavailable ethoxylated materials include TWEEN® (ethoxylated sorbitanmono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C12 to C18 fatty acids with an averagedegree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are those formed from a fatty alcohol, afatty acid, or a glyceride with a C4 to C36 carbon chain, preferably aC12 to C18 carbon chain, more preferably a C16 to C18 carbon chain,derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8. HLB is understood to mean thebalance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and thesize and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. Suchderivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates,polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates,polysorbates, and others that would be apparent to one of ordinary skillin the art. Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above,such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB ispreferably greater than or equal to 8. Preferably the nonionicsurfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10-25, morepreferably from 10-20 moles.

The nonionic surfactant will typically be present in the composition inan amount of from greater than 0% to 70% by weight, preferably fromgreater than 0% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from greater than0% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

In general, non-limiting examples of anionic silicones which may be usedin the present invention include silicone carboxylates, siliconephosphates, silicone sulfates, silicone sulfosuccinates, and siliconesulfonates.

Suitable silicone carboxylates may be chosen from water soluble siliconecompounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group, oil solublesilicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group,water-dispersible silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylicacid group, and silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylicacid group which are soluble in organic solvents. In one embodiment, theat least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic acidgroup further comprises at least one alkoxylated chain, wherein the atleast one alkoxy group may be chosen from terminal alkoxy groups,pendant alkoxy groups, and alkoxy groups which are intercalated in theskeleton of the at least one silicone compound. Non-limiting examples ofat least one alkoxy group include ethylene oxide groups and propyleneoxide groups.

The at least one carboxylic acid group may be chosen from terminalcarboxylic acid groups and pendant carboxylic acid groups. Further, theat least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from carboxylic acid groupsin free acid form, i.e., —COOH, and carboxylic acid groups in salt form,i.e., —COOM, wherein M may be chosen from inorganic cations, such as,for example, potassium cations and sodium cations, and organic cations.

In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound comprising atleast one carboxylic acid group is chosen from silicone compounds offormula (I) and salts thereof:

wherein: a is an integer ranging from 1 to 100; b is an integer rangingfrom 0 to 500; R, which may be identical or different, are each chosenfrom optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups comprising from 1 to 9carbon atoms, optionally substituted phenyl groups, and groups offormula (II):

wherein: c, d, and e, which may be identical or different, are eachintegers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethylene oxide group; PO is apropylene oxide group; and R″ is chosen from optionally substituteddivalent hydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groupscomprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally substituteddivalent aromatic groups, such as groups of formula (III):

and groups of formula (IV):

with the proviso that at least one of the R groups is chosen from groupsof formula (II) and with the further proviso that when only one of the Rgroups is chosen from groups of formula (II), the other R groups are notall methyl groups.

Non-limiting examples of the at least one silicone compound includethose commercially available from Noveon under the name Ultrasil® CA-1Silicone and Ultrasil® CA-2 Silicone, both of which correspond toformula (V) below. This silicone carboxylate is sold in the free acidform as an emulsifier and dispersing aid for complexing fatty cationicamines and quaternary amines. Thus, in one embodiment, the at least onesilicone compound is chosen from silicone compounds of formula (V) andsalts thereof:

wherein: a is an integer ranging from 1 to 100; b is an integer rangingfrom 0 to 500; AO is chosen from groups of formula (VI):

-(EO)_(c)—(PO)_(d)-(EO)_(e)-   (VI)

wherein: c, d, and e, which may be identical or different, are eachintegers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethylene oxide group; and PO isa propylene oxide group; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 60; R″ ischosen from optionally substituted divalent hydrocarbons, such asalkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprising from 2 to 22 carbonatoms, and optionally substituted divalent aromatic groups, such asgroups of formula (III):

and groups of formula (IV):

Non-limiting examples of the at least one silicone compound includethose described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,248,783 and 5,739,371, thedisclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference, and which aresilicone compounds of formula (I).

Suitable silicone phosphates may be chosen from water-soluble siliconecompounds comprising at least one phosphate group, oil soluble siliconecompounds comprising at least one phosphate group, water-dispersiblesilicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group, and siliconecompounds comprising at least one phosphate group which are soluble inorganic solvents.

In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound comprising atleast one phosphate group further comprises at least one alkoxylatedchain, wherein the at least one alkoxy group may be chosen from terminalalkoxy groups, pendant alkoxy groups, and alkoxy. groups which areintercalated in the skeleton of the at least one silicone compound.Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxy group include ethyleneoxide groups (“EO”=−CH2-CH2-O—) and propylene oxide groups (“PO”=C3H6O).

The at least one phosphate group may be chosen from terminal phosphategroups and pendant phosphate groups. Further, the at least one phosphategroup may be chosen from groups of formula —O—P(O)(OH)2, groups offormula —O—P(O)(OH)(OR), and groups of formula —O—P(O)(OR)2, wherein Rmay be chosen from H, inorganic cations, and organic cations.Non-limiting examples of inorganic cations include alkali metals, suchas, for example, potassium lithium, and sodium. A non-limiting exampleof organic cations is at least one additional silicone compound whichmay be identical to or different from the at least one silicone compoundbonded to the other oxygen of the phosphate group.

In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound comprising atleast one phosphate group is chosen from silicone compounds of formula(I):

wherein R1, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from H,organic cations, inorganic cations, optionally substituted hydrocarbons(such as alkyl groups and alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbonatoms), optionally substituted aromatic groups; groups of formula (II)and salts thereof:

CH₃(CH₂)_(x)—O(EO)_(c)—(PO)_(d)-(EO)_(e)—CH₂CH₂—  (II)

wherein: c, and d, which may be identical or different, are eachintegers ranging from 0 to 20; e is an integer ranging from 0 to 19; andx is an integer ranging from 0 to 21; groups of formula (III) and saltsthereof:

HO-(EO)_(c)—(PO)_(d)-(EO)_(e)—(CH₂)_(x)—  (III)

wherein: c, d, and e, which may be identical or different, are eachintegers ranging from 0 to 20; and x is an integer ranging from 0 to 21;and groups of formula (IV) and salts thereof:

wherein: a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; b is an integer rangingfrom 0 to 200; R′, which may be identical or different, are each chosenfrom optionally substituted hydrocarbons, such as alkyl groups andalkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionallysubstituted aromatic groups, groups of formula (III) as defined aboveand salts thereof; and R, which may be identical or different, are eachchosen from optionally substituted hydrocarbons, such as alkyl groupsand alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionallysubstituted aromatic groups, optionally substituted divalenthydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprisingfrom 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted divalent aromaticgroups, groups of formula (III) as defined above and salts thereof, andgroups of formula (V):

-(EO)_(c)—(PO)_(d)-(EO)_(e)—(CH₂)₃—  (V)

wherein:the (CH2)3 end is bonded to the silicon of the compound of formula (IV)and the (EO) or (PO) end, if present, is bonded to the oxygen of thecompound of formula (I); c, d, and e, which may be identical ordifferent, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethyleneoxide group; and PO is a propylene oxide group; and with the provisothat at least one R is chosen from groups of formula (V) and saltsthereof; and with the further proviso that at least one R1 is chosenfrom groups of formula (IV) and salts thereof and at least one other R1is chosen from H, organic cations, and inorganic cations.

Non-limiting examples of the inorganic cations include alkali metals,such as potassium, lithium, and sodium. Non-limiting examples of the atleast one silicone compound include those commercially available fromPhoenix Chemical, Inc. of New Jersey under the name of Pecosil®, such asPecosil® PS-100, Pecosil® PS-112, Pecosil® PS-150, Pecosil® PS-200,Pecosil® WDS-100, Pecosil® WDS-200, Pecosil® PS-100 B, and Pecosil®PS-100 K and those commercially available from Siltech under the nameSilphos A-100 and Silphos A-150. Other non-limiting examples of the atleast one silicone compound include those described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,070,171, 5,093,452, and 5,149,765 the disclosures of which areincorporated herein by reference.

Suitable silicone sulfates for use in the present invention includethose represented by formula VI:

wherein R11 is selected from lower alkyl having one to eight carbonatoms or phenyl, R12 is —(CH2)3-O-(EO)x-(PO)y-(EO)z-SO331-M+ wherein Mis a cation and is selected from Na, K, Li, or NH4; x, y and z areintegers independently ranging from 0 to 100; R13 is—(CH2)3-O-(EO)x-(PO)y-(EO)z-H; R14 is methyl or hydroxyl; al and cl areindependently integers ranging from 0 to 50; bl is an integer rangingfrom 1 to 50. An example thereof is Ultrasil SA-1 silicone commerciallyavailable from Noveon.

Suitable silicone sulfosuccinates which may be employed include, but arenot limited to, those corresponding to formula VII:

wherein R represents a divalent radical selected from

wherein a′ and b′ range from 0 to 30; x and y are such that themolecular weight ranges from 700 to 1600, and M is an alkali metal suchas sodium or potassium, or an ammonium group.

A particularly preferred anionic silicone is Dimethicone PEG-8phosphate, commercially available from Noveon under the tradenameUltrasil PE-100.

The anionic silicone is present in the composition in an amount rangingfrom greater than 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to30% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 15% by weight,based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

It has surprisingly been found that the carrier composition of thepresent invention facilitates the formulation of an aqueous deliverysystem capable of carrying up to 50% by weight, preferably up to 30% byweight, more preferably up to 20% by weight, and most preferably up to10% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition,of water-insoluble ingredients. The resultant aqueous delivery system isboth stable, and clear to slightly hazy/limpid in appearance.

Thus, in another aspect, the present invention relates to an aqueousdelivery system comprising the carrier composition, at least onewater-insoluble ingredient and an aqueous phase. The carrier compositionis present in an amount sufficient to allow the at least onewater-insoluble material to be incorporated into the aqueous system. Theamount sufficient for incorporation may vary depending on the type ofcomposition; for example, shampoo and mascara formulations require alower concentration of the carrier composition than do conditioner, deeptreatment, bleach, permanent wave, dye, and relaxant compositions.

Water-insoluble materials or ingredients include, but are not limitedto, the following:

1. Lipophilic “ingredients” or “materials” such as silicones,oil-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin E and Vitamin A, sunscreens,ceramides and natural oils: The lipophilic ingredients may be in theform of sunscreens, bacteriostats, moisturizers, colors, topicalpharmaceuticals and the like. Preferred lipophilic ingredients include:Vitamin E, Vitamin E Acetate, Vitamin A Palmitate, olive oil, mineraloil, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, octylmethoxy cinnamate, octylsalicylate, and silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyltrimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, aminosilicone andlaurylmethicone copolyol. The lipophilic ingredients will, for example,moisturize or condition the skin, hair, and/or eyelashes and leavebehind no oily feel.

2. Water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes, wherein the polymersand resins include but are not limited to those containing carboxylmoieties, such as acrylates and other carboxy polymers.

Preferred water-insoluble ingredients for use in the present inventioninclude silicones ranging from low molecular weight fluids to highmolecular weight gums; hydrocarbons such as mineral oil, petrolatum,paraffins, iso-paraffins, aromatic hydrocarbons, and the like; plantoils such as olive, avocado, coconut, and the like; fatty acids; fattyesters; fatty alcohols; and fatty waxes.

The aqueous phase of the inventive delivery system can containadditional ingredients such as anionic surfactants, organic salts,inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes, water-soluble polymers, quaternaryammonium compounds, complex and simple carbohydrates, amino acids,preservatives and fragrances.

Another embodiment of the present invention is drawn to a process formaking an aqueous delivery system. This process involves: (a) providinga carrier composition containing at least one phospholipid, at least onenonionic surfactant, and at least one anionic silicone; (b) providing atleast one water-insoluble ingredient; (c) optionally, heating thecarrier composition to form a heated composition; (d) adding thewater-insoluble ingredient to either the carrier composition, the heatedcomposition or both; (e) providing an aqueous solution; (f) adding theaqueous solution to the heated mixture to form a diluted mixture and (g)cooling the diluted mixture to form the desired aqueous delivery system.Preferably the aqueous delivery system obtained can carry a high load(i.e., 50% is considered a high load) of the water-insoluble ingredient.

In another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to a process fortreating keratinous substances such as, but not limited to, hair, skin,or eyelashes by contacting the keratinous substance with theabove-disclosed aqueous delivery system. The term treating in thecontext of this invention includes, but is not limited to, shampooing,conditioning, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing, setting,moisturizing, and making-up, for example, applying mascara orfoundation.

As mentioned previously, the carrier composition and aqueous deliverysystem of the present invention can be used as an ingredient itself in,for example, shampoos, conditioners (rinse-off and leave-in), deeptreatments for hair, body washes, bath gels, hair dyeing compositions,permanent wave formulations, relaxers, make-up preparations,particularly mascara and foundation, and skin creams or lotions.

The aqueous delivery systems of the invention can be further associated,in the hair products described above, with proteins including hydrolyzedsoy protein, lauryldimonium hydrolyzed soy protein (cationic Soyaprotein) and wheat amino acids. The proteins could also include corn,wheat, milk, or silk proteins, collagens, keratins, or others.Furthermore, taurine and arginine hydrochloride may be associatedtherein to maximize protein binding to the keratinous substrate.Cationic proteins or proteins in general may be stabilizers for theaqueous delivery system and enhance its delivery by changing the chargeof the aqueous delivery system. The skin and the hair attract cationicingredients, and proteins are generally substantive to these tissues.

Other ingredients in the aqueous delivery system may include cationicpolymers, such as polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7,polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium22, and polyquaternium 32, cationic conditioners, such as quaternium 27,behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl tallowdimoniumchloride, hexadimethrine chloride, stearalkonium chloride, andcetrimonium chloride, isoparaffins, sodium chloride, propylene glycol,preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, andpropylparaben, pH adjusters such as phosphoric acid, humectants such astrehalose, and emollients such as octyldodecanol. Many other examples ofmaterials from the classes listed above would be readily known to one ofordinary skill in the art.

Further, shampoos, conditioners, and deep treatments within the scope ofthe present invention may be used on hair which has been treated, e.g.,with color (dye or bleach) or chemicals (permanent wave orstraightening), or which is dry or fine and show significantsubstantivity for the hair.

The invention will be further clarified by the following examples, whichare intended to be illustrative of the invention, but not limitingthereof.

EXAMPLES

General procedure: The general procedure for formulating carrier systemis as follows: First, add deionized water to the beaker and begin mixingat moderate speed. Disperse in Behentrimonium chloride. Then heat thebatch to 80° C., and at 80° C., add Procetyl AWS (INCI: PPG-5 Ceteth-20)and Ultrasil PE-100 (silicone phosphate). Mix well. Then add the activeingredient. Mix well until formula is clear, maintaining at 80° C. Coolto room temperature. If necessary, pour at 75° C. since formula may gelup around 70° C.

1. The Carrier System

Following the general procedure, a series of solutions were made asdepicted in Table 1. The results show that a complete carrier system isneeded to form a clear, stable solution that contains a water insolublesilicone.

TABLE 1 Experiments showing a clear, stable carrier system Combinationsof ingredients Appearance Water 43 g + Procetyl AWS 30 g + DC 200 Hazy(300,000 cst) 10 g Water 43 g + Silicone Phosphate 15 g + DC 200 Hazy(300,000 cst) 10 g Water 43 g + Behentrimonium Chloride 2 g + HazyProcetyl AWS 30 g + DC 200 (300,000 cst) 10 g Water 43 g +Behentrimonium Chloride 2 g + Silicone Hazy Phosphate 15 g + DC 200(300,000 cst) 10 g Water 43 g + Procetyl AWS 30 g + Hazy SiliconePhosphate 15 g + DC 200 (300,000 cst) 10 g Water 43 g + BehentrimoniumChloride 2 g + Clear Procetyl AWS 30 g + Silicone Phosphate 15 g + DC200 (300,000 cst) 10 g2. Carrier System with Different Silicones

The carrier system is able to carry different types of silicones, suchas DC 200 (INCI: dimethicone), and DC 555 and DC 556 (INCI:phenyltrimethicone). When formulated using the general procedure asdescribed above, clear, stable systems are obtained, as shown in table2.

TABLE 2 Carrier system with different types of silicones A B C D E D.I.Water 43% 43% 43% 43% 49% Behentrimonium  2%  2%  2%  2%  2% ChloridePPG-5 30% 30% 30% 30% 30% Ceteth-20 Silicone 15% 15% 15% 15% 15%Phosphate Silicones 10% (DC 200 10% (DC 200 10% (DC 200 10%  4% (1000cst)) (60,000 cst)) (300,000 cst)) (DC 556) (DC 555)

Furthermore, the above formulas D and E are dilutable in a shampoo base(25% TEA Lauryl sulfate, 10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and 65% DI Water).In addition, the above formula D is dilutable in water.

3. Carrier System with Different Oils

The carrier system is able to carry different types of oils, such asolive oil, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, apricot kerneloil, rice bran oil, mineral oil and tea tree oil. When formulated usingthe general procedure as described above, clear, stable systems areobtained, as shown in table 3.

TABLE 3 Carrier system with different types of oils A B C D E F G H D.I.21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 43% 43% Water Laureth-4 27% 27% 27% 27% 27% 27%— — PPG-5 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 30% 30% Ceteth-20 Silicone 23% 23% 23%23% 23% 23% 15% 15% Phosphate Behentri-  2%  2%  2%  2%  2%  2%  2%  2%monium Chloride Oils  5%  5%  5%  5%  5%  5% 10% 10% (Olive (Avocado(Macadamia (Jojoba (Apricot (Rice (Mineral (Tea oil) oil) nut oil) oil)kernel oil) bran oil) oil) tree oil)

Furthermore, the above formulas G and H are dilutable in water and in ashampoo base (25% TEA Lauryl sulfate, 10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and65% DI Water).

4. Carrier System with Esters/Waxes/Hydrocarbons

The carrier system is able to carry different types of esters, such ascapric/caprylic triglyceride. When formulated using the generalprocedure as described above, clear, stable systems are obtained, asshown in table 4.

TABLE 4 Carrier system with capric/caprylic triglyceride D.I. Water 20%Laureth-4 26% PPG-5 Ceteth-20 22% Silicone Phosphate 26% Behentrimoniumchloride  2% Capric/caprylic triglyceride  4%

Furthermore, the above formula is dilutable in water and in a shampoobase (25% TEA Lauryl sulfate, 10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and 65% DIWater).

5. Carrier System with other Fatty Quats

Carrier system is also clear and stable when Behentrimonium chloride isreplaced with another fatty quat, such as Incroquat Behenyl HE, Quat-22,Quat-80, and Quat-87 with water insoluble ingredients such as mineraloil and capric/caprylic triglyceride. See table 5.

TABLE 5 Carrier system with different fatty quats carrying mineral oiland capric/caprylic triglyceride A B C D E F G H D.I. Water 20% 20% 20%20% 20% 20% 20% 20% Laureth-4 26% 26% 26% 26% 26% 26% 26% 26% PPG-5 22%22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% Ceteth-20 Silicone 26% 26% 26% 26% 26% 26%26% 26% Phosphate Fatty quats  2%  2%  2%  2%  2%  2%  2%  2% (Incroquat(Ceraphyl (Quat- (Varisoft (Incroquat (Ceraphyl (Quat- (Varisoft BehenylHE) 60) 80) W575PG) Behenyl HE) 60) 80) W575PG) Mineral oil  4%  4%  4% 4% — — — — Capric/ — — — —  4%  4%  4%  4% caprylic triglyceride Note:Incroquat Behenyl HE = Hydroxyethyl Behenamidopropyl Dimonium ChlorideCeraphyl 60 = Quat-22 60% and water 40% Quat-80 contains 5% PG. VarisoftW575PG = Quat-87 75% and PG 25%

Furthermore, all of the above formulas are dilutable in a shampoo base(25% TEA Lauryl sulfate, 10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and 65% DI Water).In addition, formulas A and C are dilutable in water.

6. Conditioning Effects of the Carrier System

The conditioning effect of the carrier system, as a carrier of AvocadoOil, was assessed by the wet combability method using the Instron 4444Tensile Tester. Evaluation was carried out on bleached hair, cleansedwith 15% SLES, and treated a single time with the carrier systemformulation. Specifically, swatches were treated once with 0.3g productper gram of hair. The hair was treated with the product for 1 minute andrinsed for 10 seconds. The total combing energy required to comb thehair was measured after cleansing with SLES (WO, as well as aftertreatment (W_(f)). The percent change in combing energy was calculatedusing the following formula: % Δ Combing Energy=(W _(f) −W _(i))/(W_(i))×100%

where W_(i)=combing energy required prior to treatment and W_(f)=combingenergy required after treatment. Treatments, which improve wetcombability, will result in negative percent change values.

A clear, stable carrier solution composed of the following formula wasused to treat the hair:

Classification Trade Name % wt/wt Water Water 21 Silicone PhosphateUltrasil PE-100 26 Nonionic Surfactant Brij 30 27 Nonionic SurfactantProcetyl AWS 22 Fatty Quat Genamin KDMP 2 Avocado Oil Avocado Oil 4

Following a single application of the carrier system, the percent changein combing energy was −57.86%, indicating that the treated hair issignificantly more conditioned. Thus, treatment with the carrier systemmade the hair more manageable and easier to comb by 57.86%.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that variousmodifications and variations can be made in the delivery system,composition and methods of the invention without departing from thespirit or scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the presentinvention cover the modifications and variations of this inventionprovided that they come within the scope of the appended claims andtheir equivalents.

1. A composition comprising: (a) at least one fatty quaternary amine compound; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant; (c) at least one anionic silicone; and (d) at least one water-insoluble material.
 2. The composition of claim 1 wherein (a) is behentrimonium chloride.
 3. The composition of claim 1 wherein (a) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 4. The composition of claim 1 wherein (a) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 5. The composition of claim 1 wherein (b) has an HLB of at least about
 8. 6. The composition of claim 1 wherein (b) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 70% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 7. The composition of claim 1 wherein (b) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 8. The composition of claim 1 wherein (c) is a silicone phosphate.
 9. The composition of claim 1 wherein (c) is a silicone carboxylate.
 10. The composition of claim 1 wherein (c) is a silicone sulfate.
 11. The composition of claim 1 wherein (c) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 12. The composition of claim 1 wherein (c) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 15% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 13. The composition of claim 1 wherein (d) is present in an amount of up to about 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 14. The composition of claim 1 wherein (d) is present in an amount of up to about 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 15. A process for making an aqueous delivery system which is both stable, and clear to slightly limpid in appearance, involving the steps of: (a) providing a carrier composition containing: (i) at least one fatty quaternary amine compound, (ii) at least one nonionic surfactant and, (iii) at least one anionic silicone; (b) providing at least one water-insoluble ingredient; (c) optionally, heating the composition of step (a) to form a heated mixture; (d) adding (b) to either step (a), step (c) or both step (a) and (c); (e) adding an aqueous solution to either (c) or (d) to form a diluted mixture; and (f) cooling the diluted mixture to form the aqueous delivery system.
 16. A process for treating a keratinous substrate comprising contacting the keratinous substrate with a composition containing: (a) at least one fatty quaternary amine compound; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant; (c) at least one anionic silicone; and (d) at least one water-insoluble material.
 17. The process of claim 16 wherein (a) is behentrimonium chloride.
 18. The process of claim 16 wherein (a) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 19. The process of claim 16 wherein (a) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 20. The process of claim 16 wherein (b) has an HLB of at least about
 8. 21. The process of claim 16 wherein (b) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 70% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 22. The process of claim 16 wherein (b) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 23. The process of claim 16 wherein (c) is a silicone phosphate.
 24. The process of claim 16 wherein (c) is a silicone carboxylate.
 25. The process of claim 16 wherein (c) is a silicone sulfate.
 26. The process of claim 16 wherein (c) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 27. The process of claim 16 wherein (c) is present in an amount of from about greater than 0 to about 15% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 28. The process of claim 16 wherein (d) is present in an amount of up to about 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 29. The process of claim 16 wherein (d) is present in an amount of up to about 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 30. The process of claim 16 wherein the keratinous substrate is hair.
 31. A personal care composition comprising the composition of claim
 1. 32. The composition of claim 31 wherein the composition is chosen from a shampoo, a conditioner, a deep treatment, or a combination shampoo and conditioner. 